1968 model 270, refurbish

[68270]

Hi, \n\nNewbie here, first post.\n\nI have a 68 Travco model 270. If this is anything like a classic telescope forum then I understand you all are going to want pictures. I'll be playing games trying to figure out this website since I'm a bit old fashioned and get along s0-so with the computer thing, but I can get pictures jpeg off the camera and into the gonkputer. \n\nI have the wheels off. Obviously some power brain at a commercial service station put the lug nuts on with a 1,500 ft.lb wrench and mushed up the threads. I found a complete set of new ones front and back and have already knocked out the old ones and I'll be pressing the new ones in. I like the idea of using a press (simple cheesy 20 ton) instead of sledge, but if you folks just pound them in, let me know. Bearings are all good, were recently serviced, but I'll be redoing those and new seals up front.\n\nBrakes are good for the shoes, and the drums look good (all front). I have one front brake cylinder that looks slightly seepy and I'd like to get a rebuild kit (have the wheel cylinder hones, know how to do that) but also interested in rebuilt cylinders if available. Heck, I'm interested in parts in general. I'd like to get the front drums back on.\n\nI noticed the side of the 318 is totally open with the tires and drums off so I'll be doing the plugs while I'm down there, checking the whole steering, ball joints, has that steering stabilizer after market thing installed pretty nice.\n\nQuestions, comments, request (pictures), and help with the wheel brake cylinder supply is greatly appreciated. I'd like to get this on the road shortly for Spring. \n\nChuck

[Dodgy71]

Welcome to the forum!\n I am just starting the refurbishment of a 1971 270, which is on the Dodge M375 platform. Engine (413) is running well, but am now doing a pretty complete brake system overhaul. I have an advantage in that I joined http://www.Classicwinnebagos.com, also, and for a small $ contribution was able to get electronic copies of the Dodge Truck repair manual and parts manual. These are a great start for tracking down parts because the parts manual gives you many of the original dodge part #'s which you can then cross reference. DaveVA78Chieftain at http://dave78chieftain.com/index.html has done much of this cross referencing work and is an excellent resource, so I'd check his site out also.\n Don't get me wrong, this site (Travcoforum), and its members, are fantastic also, just wanted to give you some of what I have learned over the last 6 mo's or so.\n For brakes, I'd suggest contacting Geoffrey at Alretta Truck Parts http://www.alretta.com/ as he has deep knowledge of the brake systems for these beasts, and can often supply parts that are very difficult to find elsewhere. He won't be the least expensive, but after talking to him, I quickly realized that his knowledge, and focus on keeping these chassis functioning, was worth some bucks (Note that I have no financial interest in Alretta. I'm just a guy trying to keep my Travco on the road).\n Good luck on your project!

[77Travco]

Welcome to TravcoForum! The quad headlight 270's are my favorite body style. Be aware that the driver side may have left hand threads.\nMy 270 had the front rotors swapped sometime in the past. I have left hand threads on the left rear and right front.

[68270]

OK, here's pictures.\n\nAll the tires off and down to the backing plates for all 4. I drove it across town at 50 the day I bought it so I know it runs at least OK. The gas tank was badly rusted (known) and the seller gave me an extra fuel filter to get across town about 40 miles. I've since had the tank scrubbed and coated since last fall and then drove it for about a 60 mile trip with no issues. \n\nMy first concern is having it STOP, before the Spring trip. The rear brakes are immaculate, were just completely redone before I bought it. I didn't even have to take the assembly apart to check the wheel cylinders. The shoes are new. Not a peep of seepage. All the hardware is great down to the self adjusters and everything works great. The oil was in need of changing so I sucked all that out the pumpkin, have the bearings in the solvent tank (I use diesel). I have the new seals and the wheel studs are OK. The only reason the studs survived is that the second stage nut assembly uses 100% of the threads on the hub. The front is a whole different story.\n\nFirst up, the front wheel studs were all shot due to some one using a splined drive semi trailer air wrench to apply WELL in excess of 1,000 ft. lb. of torque and the threads were ALL boogered up. I replaced all 10 (5 each side) in original fashion with left handed threads on the left side. The rear is still left on left as well. The studs may be a little hard to find but are still made by Euclid. I placed all 5 in each assembly with a hammer till the flats edge engaged (kept same drum/hub orientation). They were just a hair over zero clearance light press fit, could have been tighter but they won't be going anywhere for sure. Then a nut on each to hold them in place, then the 20 ton press to seat the shoulder and set the edge flat, air wrench to between 300 and 400 ft. lb. while under press, then more press back to max, and a final air wrench. They seated solid and all had a thread locker glue applied. \n\nAs of now the shoes are getting relined. New ones seem to be obsolete. The drums have turn room but it is probably their last turn. The cylinders had pitting. I honed them out and bought new 1.5" cups, but the relined shoes would likely put the cups back into the ruts pits which would leak. I returned the cups and bought two new front cylinders at NAPA for$110 out the door for both. The bearings are all good, new seals, etc. When I get the front shoes back, I'll do a complete brake fluid flush before hooking up the front cylinders. I'll also do the bi annual maintenance in the future.\n\nWhile it's all up on blocks (my life), every grease zert, engine plug and compression test, caps for all zerts and bleeders (I just like those), uni joints on the drive line, emergency brake (shaft grabber), etc. \n\nI have no windshield wiper switch installed, which I found in a parts bin inside. Any suggestions? That's next. I haven't gone looking for the wiper system access yet, but it might be a lot easier with it all open on blocks up front. The shoes should be back by mid week and I'd like to have the wipers done by then. \n\nSo far so good. My lady is doing the inside which is original and complete but in need of some touch.

[77Travco]

Wow, that's alot of work! The great thing about doing all of your own work is that there is almost nothing you can't figure out if there is an issue when traveling. Glad to see another old coach being kept on the road!

[Fellchase]

The OE wiper switch is hard to find (impossible?) if your 68 is like mine. I recommend a standard universal switch (don't forget the motors are two speed) get one from NAPA or maybe one with cool billet knobs from a hot rod supply. I guess you could do a later model Mopar two speed switch those are out there. There is a thread on Dodge Travco Motorhome Lovers Facebook page Jim Dunn he did new everything on wipers for a ,66...motors, arms, linkage, switches...a nice install. He used Midwest Bus Parts there a parts list on FB everything he used.