Easy Lug nut removal

[Acesneights]

I had a 3/4 drive torque mulitplier years ago but broke it. It was a nice tool. I use my 3/4 Air gun or my 3/4 drive robotool from my 5 Ton's Nato Slave Port. I wish I could find a 12v Robotool.

[Dodgy71]

I also purchased this tool after seeing the original post. Now that I am doing the complete brake system, I actually got to use it to remove all the wheels. Don't know how you all removed these lug nuts at 450 lb/ft+ without this tool, but it sure is easy with it \n (Actually I do get the long cheater bar, jack stand and standing on it method, but that sounds like a great way to get hurt. Man's got to do what he's got to do though, if you don't have the fancy tools).\n\n How do you recommend tightening them to the torque spec? I never trust impacts, but have yet to find a 1" drive 4-ft long torque wrench, but maybe the big truck guys have such a thing...

[KB2CRK]

If it is the same 78 to 1 multiplier I listed here using a torque wrench with the multiplier to tighten should work. If my math is correct 77 inch pounds tightening should be the right setting. I am going to double check it before using it myself. I picked up a 1" 8 point socket to use on the multiplier.

[KB2CRK]

Just double checked the math and 76.97 in lbs of torque on the input of the multiplier should be 500 ft lbs on the output side. With a setting of 76 in lbs should put it well in the range of 450 to 500 ft lbs.\nJust did the math for 450 ft lbs and it comes up just under 70 in lbs input. So anywhere between 70 and 76 in lbs should be good.

[RobC]

Spring has sprung here in western Washington (actually it seems it went straight to summer) but RobC is back in the game!\n\nTarp came off and I pulled the outer duals off the back. \n\nThe inner's don't seem to coincide with the manual that says the inner stud/bolt should keep the inner wheel secure only.\n\nThe flange on the inner bolt looks like it is on the inside of the inner wheel rim. I booted the wheel a couple times and it sures seems secure. \n\nDo you just unscrew the inner bolts, remove them one by one and let the rim rest in the hub until you can pull the wheel off?\n\nThis was a critical path item as I have two inners that were blown, now with the magic lug wrench, wheels are off, local shop will pull the old rubber, I can bling the rims with new paint and actually drive my rig again!\n\nNext projects: \nreinstall heater core\nReplace Shift shaft seal on TF tranny\nComplete new dashboard with new gauges (this one is giving me fits of rage)\nstart the el-swanko interior...\n\nAlso I have the original gel coat almost all the way sanded (Barkeep's friend and white scotch brite) down ready for the Zep Floor Polish treatment.\n\nRob "back in the game" C

[Dodgy71]

Inners come off just like outers after the square headed lug nut is removed. Remember the left side uses left hand threads!

[RobC]

Got it figured out. All four wheels came right off. I have one stud that is broken though but it has enough thread to get the inner lug on it but not a lot of extra threads.\n\nReplacement means pulling the drum correct?

[KB2CRK]

Got it figured out. All four wheels came right off. I have one stud that is broken though but it has enough thread to get the inner lug on it but not a lot of extra threads.\n\nReplacement means pulling the drum correct?

\n\nYup it does.

[77Travco]

If you have the drums off... might as well check the bearings and brakes!

[RobC]

Bearings, shoes and brakes were all basically replaced when I bought the rig. Axles inspected. So I think I am going to wait on replacing the stud.\n\nIf I pull the drums off I am putting discs back on it. That's after I wear out my brand new 19.5 Toyo tires.