Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by RobC » Wed Feb 25, 2015 7:29 pm

Oh and I know my inverter works (as well as the AC system)

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by badbillybiker » Wed Feb 25, 2015 9:09 pm

I ul'd a number of manuals etc. Do a search for triad or converter..... They are in the PDF format...HTH... \nThere are others, just keep searching with different wordings...\nBBB

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by 77Travco » Thu Feb 26, 2015 3:07 pm

Just an FYI... \nMy alternator charges both my engine and house batt's through an isolator. The alternator feeds to the isolator and then that splits to each battery. The isolator acts as a diode to prevent a backfeed to the alternator from the house charger.\nThese electrical 12 volt isolators are pretty easy to find if you wish to wire one back in. (came from the factory this way) Hope that helps!

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by RobC » Sat Mar 14, 2015 12:49 am

OK so I got my house dc vs chassis DC system figured out (basic plumbing principles applied). My systems are separate, got. Battery isolated and my system is charging like it is supposed to. \n\nI have now graduated from a Sh#tty electrician to a marginally skilled electrician.\n\nI am now shouting obscenities on a regular basis while lying upside down under the dash basically rewiring the whole chassis dc fuse panel making sure stuff works.\n\nNoob question: What is the difference between BATT ACC and IGN ACC on the DC chassis panel?\n\nI assume BATT accessories are wired directly to the battery with no need for turning the ignition switch? And IGN ACC means those accessories need the alternator to be running?\n\nBoth of these have a short wire that goes to two bolt type lugs adjacent to the flasher pots. Which I assume is provided for multiple and easy access to connect additional accessories (Step, air horn, rockin stereo, etc.).\n\nThanks in advance\n\nRobC

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by Dave78Chieftain » Sat Mar 14, 2015 8:16 am

\nI assume BATT accessories are wired directly to the battery with no need for turning the ignition switch? And IGN ACC means those accessories need the alternator to be running? I assume BATT accessories are wired directly to the battery with no need for turning the ignition switch? And IGN ACC means those accessories need the alternator to be running?
\n \nBATT ACC Fuse - Source directly from battery via circuit A20. Used for things that would need power when IGN switch is OFF. \n\nIGN ACC Fuse - Source directly from Ignition Switch via circuit J2. Used for things that would need power when IGN switch is ON or at ACC.\n\nBoth were provided by Dodge for end user use however neither one was used by Dodge. Used by RV manufacture or RV owner.\n\nYou are using the Dodge chassis wiring diagrams? I have them posted on my web site if you need them: http://dave78chieftain.com/ (use the pdf link on the associated pages)\n\nNotes: \nWhen Dodge changed over to the RM300 (M300), RM350 (M400), and RM400 (M400) chassis in 73-74 with the new style instrument cluster, they also changed to the newer style chassis fuse panel. It is mounted to the steering column under the dash. Presence relay and horn relay are also under there.\n\nPresence relay was used to reduce the current flow through the headlight switch.\n\nCheck the white semi-circular electrical plug at the base of the steering wheel for the ignition switch cable. Known weak spot for corroded connections.\n\nWhen Dodge changed over to the RM300 (M300), RM350 (M400), and RM400 (M400) chassis in 73-74 with the new style instrument cluster, they used a short section of wire on the alternator B+ circuit as the shunt for the dash Amp meter input. This was the fix for the Amp meter "weak spot" design across all Dodge products that resulted a dead chassis when the shunt in the old style Amp meter burnt out.\n\nBecause a fusible wire section uses smaller gauge wire than the rest of the circuit, they break down over time. Make sure the ones down at the starter relay on frame rail are not flimsy or the fire retardent insulation on them is not swollen from age. The wire section should be as stiff as regular wire. \n\nDave

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by RobC » Sat Mar 14, 2015 10:25 am

Great thanks Dave. Good info. Mine is a 76 so it has the newer panel. I have ignition ACC power at the panel but no Bart power. Now that I know where it goes I can trouble shoot along the way. Starter relay looks good but I don't know how to identify the horn or presence relay\n\nWhat do they look like?\nRob

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by Dave78Chieftain » Sat Mar 14, 2015 2:40 pm

Horn relay (might be out by horns - also may have been added to support air horns)\nWith old style dash, Dodge P/N: 1791437, NAPA: HR112 - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0460606374\nWith new style dash (if used), Dodge P/N 3738109, NAPA HR126 - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0460606710\n\nPresence Lamp Relay (under dash, left side of steering column)\nWith old style dash, Dodge P/N: 2906028 - http://nospartsdepot.com/2906336.html\nWith new style dash, Dodge P/N 3489950 - http://www.bradsnosmopar.com/nosmo19dotrh2.html\nYou can also substitute a standard generic 40 amp aux light relay. I replaced mine with a aux light kit with a switch. This allows me to use my clearance lights as a thank you blinker rather than using the actual headlight switch.\n\nUse the Dodge MH Parts book to get Dodge P/N then search that number for NOS or cross ref to after market P/N.\n\n
but no Bart power
\n\nBart power?\n\nI am a Winnebago owner, not Travco\n\nDave

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by badbillybiker » Sat Mar 14, 2015 3:04 pm

Yeh... a Travco owner who is lost like you too Dave.. .\nWhat in the hexx is bart power?..\na first for me.. that meaning rather than driving, to take the Bay Area Rapid Transit?? \nBBB

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by RobC » Sun Mar 15, 2015 1:05 pm

"batt" power........\nThanks for the relay info Dave. In got it figured out yesterday.\n\nRob

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Re: Chassis DC Fuse Panel Question

Unread post by badbillybiker » Sun Mar 15, 2015 2:15 pm

tnx... I now know that batt and not bart....is the correct word..\nBBB

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