Subfloor on 270

Cabinets, Woodwork, flooring ideas Wall panels etc.
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Travco Model: 1976 270

Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by RobC » Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:02 pm

Flooring Update\n\nRipped out the cockpit flooring yesterday which was also completely rotted out. This required removing the seat posts that are bolted through the plywood to the frame below. The bolts were completely rusted.\n\nTip: Grind the bolts off from the top then punch them through. All 8 bolts (both seats) took me about 30 minutes without being hunched over under the wheel well with a spinning wheel of sparks inches from my head.\n\nThe steel floor was rusted but all in all was in great shape a beat most of the rust off, gave it a cursory once over with the wire wheel and I am about to hit it with POR 15.\n\nThe best part of getting the seatposts out is I can get to all the under dash wiring that needs cleaning, diagnosing and repair. I can also get to the heater box/motor.\n\nAlso put a new vent in the forward hatch, redoing the fridge vent today and the aft hatch later this week. The rains are coming here n Seattle and I don't have covered storage so it will be the Washington State flag (blue tarp) and weatherproofing so I can get a bunch of stuff done inside.\n\nRobC

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Travco Model: 1975 270,1974 220
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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by Acesneights » Tue Sep 02, 2014 3:25 pm

The original subfloor was 5/8 Marine grade plywood. It was bevel cut at the edges. Near impossible to find with that bevel. 3/4 should be fine. Yeah I would not mess with the wheel wells either. .I would use Industrial grade rustoleum. You cannot buy it at Home depot. Grainger carries it. We use it on Fire Hydrants here in Ct in the rust belt where they use straight salt and it has held up well. It's an Alkyd enamel. 80$/gal for Black but well worth it. Don't bother with Chassis saver/Por15. I have used both and the stuff still rusted and it peeled besides and that was with 4 coats.\nIt's alot of work but he payoff is it's done. I wish I had done mine. Now it will be twice the work.
1977 Travco 270 Elite\n1974 Travco 220 Parts unit

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Travco Model: 1975 270,1974 220
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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by Acesneights » Tue Sep 02, 2014 3:28 pm

Use this. It is way better than Por 15.\nhttp://www.grainger.com/product/RUST-OLEUM-Bla ... 1?$smthumb$
1977 Travco 270 Elite\n1974 Travco 220 Parts unit

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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by RobC » Thu Sep 04, 2014 11:46 am

Thanks for the tip Aces. We have a Granger outlet here in Seattle. I will use the spray rustoleum for the hard to reach spots then slather the industrial stuff on the frame and ribs before I cover it all back up.\n\nRob

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Travco Model: 1975 270,1974 220
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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by Acesneights » Thu Sep 04, 2014 7:29 pm

Here in CT they use about the harshest stuff on the roads I have ever seen. The Truckers association is actually suing the state because of the damage it's doing to the trucks. 3 yr old trucks look like they are ready for the scrap yard. Our fire hydrants are getting destroyed and since we started painting them last year with that stuff , it's been holding up really well.
1977 Travco 270 Elite\n1974 Travco 220 Parts unit

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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by gezundheit » Sat Dec 06, 2014 9:56 pm

i have a 220 travco that needs the floor repaired.when you guys were talking about doing your repairs on the floors did you have to pull out all the interior furniture before ripping out the flooring?i have some soft spots\nand figured if i pull up the carpet and lay down some new ply over it,i could stiffen the floor up.i guess i'll find out soon enough.regards to all and stay safe.

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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by Acesneights » Sat Dec 06, 2014 10:05 pm

yes pull all the furniture and walls. I am not looking forward to it. I supposed you could try and piece it. The factory plywood is marine grade but what happens after all these years is it dry rots and separates. :(
1977 Travco 270 Elite\n1974 Travco 220 Parts unit

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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by gezundheit » Sun Dec 07, 2014 1:57 pm

the ply separation you mention is key.when i first got the coach,there were no soft spots inside or indicators of delamination from underneath.i spent a ton of time under my 220 and the wood appeared good.since then\nwe have camped and hit florida last winter and used her as she was intended.i'm going to have to address this problem but there is no way i'm to be sentenced to removal hell.i have been around boats and think thats\nwhere the answer will come from.epoxy,comes to mind.great stuff to cement wood or aluminum clamps below subfloor and then apply new floor,bolting it to the clamps.i would use 3/4"ply for new subfloor,that would bury all my bolt heads flush.i like this idea,its a way around a demolition derby and will require less energy and resources.i've seen those pictures of the demolished interiors and it scares the hell out of me.for some\nguys its heaven,a blank canvas,a chance to finally show what they can do.not for me,i'll just repair stuff as it comes along,plus,i've no talent or originality.just an old plodder.

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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by badbillybiker » Mon Dec 08, 2014 6:16 am

a old friend of mine used to have a 36' chris sedan and a tartan 32 sail boat... With the sponginess in wood of a lot of areas in them...(transom, deck areas, etc) he would always brag about a product called git-rot.. 2 part mixture I believe... Just "poured" the mix onto the rotten/very soft wood, it was then absorbded..(sp) then the wood and product would harden into a preserved \nun-rottenable??? piece. don't kow if its still available (many years ago) but the thought of pouring a solution/liquid rather than doing a tear-out... Kinda gets one excited... doesn't it????\nDreams/nightmares have kept floor rippers wide awake on many a night, hoping others (non rippers) dont learn of it..........\nAre you one of "those"? \nI'm not...FWIW\nBBB\n\nWould it be feasible (practicle) to use the Dremel Multi-Max or a Harbor Freight equal to cut into the floor flush downward with the cabinets etc.intact to just replace the walk area and leave the wood under the cabinets alone? Curious...\nBBB

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Re: Subfloor on 270

Unread post by gezundheit » Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:53 pm

yes! to a flush cut but you then become limited to fastening the new wood only to the frame cross members.if you cut leaving a 1,1/2"-2" border,down and around the sub floor,you can clamp and fasten directly to it.then before applying the subfloor,\nyou can attend to any delaminated areas with git-rot or even anti freeze.the carpet in my coach appears to be glued down.whats the best way to remove it? heat gun maybe.

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